Pav Bhaji- The Ultimate Bombay Street Food























                                 Pav bhaji is one of many popular street foods from Mumbai, sold on the beach in Juhu where my cousins grew up but now popular throughout India. Here's a street vendor making pav bhaji like a pro. Take note of how much butter he adds at each step. I can hear my mom cringing at the fat content. "Add a little bit of butter, now add some more.."

My mom would make this at home every once in a while and it was always a treat for us because we got to eat white bread smothered in butter and it counted as Indian food. My sister and I even created a pav bhaji handshake for the occasion where her hands were the pav, mine was the bhaji, and my other hand ate the whole thing. And then we would sing "Pav Bhaji, Pav Bhaji Khaana Nahi" to the tune of Pardesi from Raja Hindustani while laughing uncontrollably.          

Pav (pronounced like paoh) means bread and bhaji means vegetables. It's basically a vegetable sloppy joe, only it actually has flavor. My favorite part is that as long as you have some potatoes, you can basically just throw in whatever vegetables you have lying around and want to get rid of. It's kind of a garbage disposal dish in that way.

Honestly, this recipe is more of a guideline based on what I did today. You can change the ratios, you can add eggplant, sweet potato, chickpea, bell pepper, beet, cabbage - really any vegetable you have on hand. Don't worry about it if you don't have one or two of the ingredients or spices. I mean it's basically just mush so no one will ever know. Generally, Indian food is meant to follow certain rules or grandmothers will yell at you and babies will cry. People in different parts of the country fight over this shit. You Bengalis put chana in pani puri?! You must be some kind of monster! Not with pav bhaji. It's virtually fool  proof - no one will yell at you if your pav bhaji is different than theirs because it all looks the same.

You can eat it like a burger with the bhaji between the buns, but most people eat it like they eat most Indian food: tearing apart a piece of the bread and using it to pick up the rest of the food. Also, this dish tastes better the day after so make sure you have leftovers!


Pav Bhaji
Ingredients:
3 potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 half head of cauliflower, cut into large pieces
1 carrot, cut into large pieces
1 cup fresh or frozen peas and/or chopped green beans
1 medium onion, chopped finely
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped green chilies
1 tablespoon grated ginger
2 cups fresh or canned chopped tomatoes
Handful of cilantro, chopped
Salt
Lemon or lime juice
Pav- dinner rolls or burger buns (preferably whole wheat), cut in half
1 tablespoon butter (I'm using Earthbalance)

Spices:
Pav Bhaji masala
Danajeeru (Cumin+Coriander Powder)
Lal marchu (Chili Powder)
Haldi (Turmeric)
Fennel seeds

If you don't have Pav Bhaji masala, try a combination of these spices:
Amchoor (Dried Mango Powder)
Ground elaichi (Cardamom)
Ground cloves
Cinnamon
Black Pepper

1. Boil the potatoes, cauliflower, carrot, peas and green beans together in a big pot until extremely soft and mushy. Use a pressure cooker if you want the job done faster
2. In the meantime, drizzle oil into another large nonstick pot at medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and green chilies and saute for a few minutes. Then add all the spices based on your own taste (but don't be afraid to add a good amount!). Stir for a bit, taking care to add a bit more oil if the mixture begins to dry out.
3. Now add the chopped tomatoes to the onions and let it simmer for a few minutes. While it is simmering, start mashing the boiled vegetables until they are as mushy as you can mash them. Add the mash to the tomato mixture along with salt and cilantro and stir until combined. Let it simmer for two more minutes, adjusting the seasoning and adding water if needed. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice
4. Take your pav and grill it on a skillet along with some butter (or substitute Earthbalance or oil to make it vegan). Serve with the bhaji and enjoy!


Tarla Dalal: The Queen of Indo-Western Cuisine




For those of you who don't know, Tarla Dalal is a pioneer of Indian cookbooks and Indian-Western cuisine. As someone who grew up studying her cookbooks, not for the recipes but to understand cultural context, I was deeply saddened to hear that she suffered from a heart-attack on November 6, 2013. Born in 1936, she has published over 100 vegetarian cookbooks as diverse and specific as Microwave Subzis, Acidity Cookbook- 50 Stomach Friendly Recipes, Exotic Diabetic Cooking, Cooking with Sprouts, Popular Restaurant Gravies, a series of children's cookbooks, a prenatal cookbook, as well as Mexican, Chinese, and Italian cookbooks. Her books are present in kitchens all across India and everywhere the Indian Diaspora spread. Her empire includes TV shows, the largest Indian food web-site, a line of ready-to-cook mixes, and her own magazine.

                            While Dalal's expertise is in Gujarati cooking, she was also one of the first people to introduce non-Indian cooking to India. Although her Western and international recipes in reality don't always resemble the food within those cuisines, her work was still revolutionary in its own right. She made non-Indian cooking more accessible than ever to Indian home-cooks. 

Vegetable Horns?
Flipping through the pages of my mother's Tarla Dalal books as a young girl, I would snicker at how ridiculous the recipes sounded compared to my American understanding of food. In her debut, Pleasures of Vegetarian Cooking, her recipe for Baked Spaghetti in Tomato Sauce calls for ghee, tomato ketchup, chili powder, sugar, capsicum, and "100 grams grated cooking cheese". What kind of person makes marinara sauce from ketchup? And what the hell is cooking cheese? Surely the real Italian deal was the spaghetti I ate at the Olive Garden. At 9 years old, the fact that she used British spellings and the metric system meant she was from another planet. Not to mention she measured in teacups instead of good ol' regular cups and spelt coconut like cocoanut! The gall!

But in the same way that "ethnic" recipes are modified for the Western palate and pantry in US , so too are the recipes in Dalal's many cookbooks which contain ingredients that can easily be found in Indian grocery stores. Westerners have tried to commodify Indian cuisine for ages from marketing curry powder to "naan hot dogs" (Yes I've seen them at Whole Foods). Tarla Dalal is a refreshing example of the opposite, adapting the West to fit the East. Her immense influence will live beyond her life  and she is certainly a person worth knowing about for anyone interested in the history and spread of cuisines.
















Also check out all the stuff she made for this kid's birthday. So jealous of this brat.
                                                 




Summer Pesto Purslane Salad

I bought my first CSA bag last week and it was kind of like vegetable Christmas. I got potatoes, onions, kale, heirloom tomatoes, radishes, a watermelon, peaches, plums, peppers, okra, and purslane. It also came with delicious Iraqi flat bread!

Shout out to the awesome refugee farmers who are part of the New Roots program at International Rescue Committee! Here is the link with info about the farm and how to sign up for bags: http://gilafarm.org/

If you don't know what purslane is, it's technically a weed and is one of the few greens that grow well in the Arizona summer heat. The amount of Omega-3s is on par with fish oil and it has 44% vitamin A. It's also a good source of vitamin C, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. It's great raw, steamed, or fried and I like to throw it into my sandwiches or quesadillas. It tastes like spinach but slightly tart and salty. Here's a nice salad for summer to use it in:


Summer Pesto Purslane Salad
1/2 cup purslane leaves
1/2 cup chopped tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped cucumbers
1-2 radishes, thinly sliced
2 tbs plain yogurt (regular or greek, whichever you prefer)
1 tbs pesto sauce (homemade or storebought)
Freshly cracked black pepper
Sea salt

Mix the yogurt with the pesto and spoon onto your plate or bowl. Sprinkle vegetables with sea salt. To assemble, place tomatoes and cucumbers in the center with the purslane on top. Top with radishes and freshly ground pepper. Enjoy!